Key takeaways
- A first sample commonly takes 2–8 weeks depending on category.
- Plan 1–3 development rounds; complex footwear or knitwear may need more.
- Bulk commonly takes 4–12 weeks after all approvals, not after the first enquiry.
- Custom material can add 4–12 weeks before factory production begins.
A realistic calendar by stage
The clock below starts only when the input for that stage is complete. “Two weeks for a sample” does not include an unresolved design, missing measurements or material still in transit.
| Stage | Working range | Main variables |
|---|---|---|
| Brief review and initial costing | 3–10 business days | Clarity, number of styles, supplier availability |
| Stock material sourcing | 3–14 days | Sample cards, courier, stock confirmation |
| Custom material / colour | 4–12 weeks | Lab dips, yarn dyeing, weaving, finishing |
| First cut-and-sew sample | 2–4 weeks | Pattern readiness, fabric, factory queue |
| Outerwear sample | 3–6 weeks | Construction, insulation, trims, finishing |
| Machine-knit sample | 3–8 weeks | Yarn, programming, swatch approval, linking |
| Footwear prototype | 4–10 weeks | Last, sole, material, components, fitting |
| Revision round | 1–4 weeks garments; 2–6 footwear | Comment quality and component changes |
| Pre-production sample | 1–3 weeks | Final material and bulk specification |
| Bulk production | 4–8 weeks basic; 6–12 complex; 8–16 footwear | Capacity, material arrival, quantity, testing |
| Final QC and release | 3–10 days | Lot size, rework and inspection access |
Three calendars that must agree
A reliable plan has a development calendar, a material calendar and a factory calendar. The launch date is controlled by the slowest one.
A garment sample can be approved while bulk fabric is still eight weeks away. Conversely, fabric can be ready while the fit remains unresolved. Both situations create idle time and rush cost.
- Reserve critical material while the sample is being refined, with a written cancellation risk.
- Set one owner and deadline for consolidated sample comments.
- Book testing and inspection before bulk is complete.
- Add transport and customs after the ex-factory date, not inside it.
What causes avoidable delay
Most delays are not caused by sewing speed. They come from fragmented comments, changed colourways, late artwork, unpaid invoices, unavailable trims and approvals made through chat without a version number.
- Changing material after fit approval.
- Sending comments from several people without consolidation.
- Approving appearance but not measurements and workmanship.
- Starting bulk before packaging and labels are frozen.
- Assuming air freight can rescue a structurally late project.
A safe launch buffer
For a first order, add 15–25% calendar contingency after the realistic critical path. Do not hide this inside every task; show it as a management buffer.
Repeat orders can be faster when patterns, components and suppliers are unchanged, but only if material remains available and the factory has capacity.